On a runway framed by school lockers and to an excellent faux-radio broadcast of upbeat disaffection-Babylon Zoo to Placebo-the models first emerged as laconically withdrawn, cloistered in those hooded pieces of generically reinvented tailoring. This show placed this collection within the pressure cooker arena in which the insecure adolescent chrysalis is forged into the self-aware young adult butterfly: high school. We want to dress the new generation, so we cannot do jackets for 2,000 euros.” Vaillant said they have been working with their partner in Kyiv for a year so far: “We do a lot of tailoring, and what is important to us as well as the quality is the price. The women of Cap Est who are in jeopardy stitched theirs into this collection while helping the designers realize their surface narrative. And we dedicate this collection to them.”Ĭlothes contain stories, texts within textile, interwoven. Added Vaillant: “They are in Ukraine, in Kyiv: we hadn’t heard from them for a few days. “They are so cute, always trying the pieces before sending them-I love them,” said Meyer.
As Vaillant showed on his phone pre-show, the women of that atelier-named Cap Est Sarl-sent the designers pictures of themselves wearing the prototypes as that development progressed towards runway-readiness in the last few weeks. The hoodie-lapelled blazers, overcoats and fleeces that you see Coperni’s It-model cast wearing so coolly here represented a challenging design brief for Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer’s tailoring atelier to achieve: they had to look good worn both up and down.
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